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Fix

Poor bed adhesion

The first layer does not stick firmly to the build plate, so prints shift, curl or detach completely, often within the first few layers.

Likely causes
  1. Nozzle too far from the bed
  2. Dirty or oily build surface
  3. Bed not level
  4. Bed temperature wrong for the material
  5. First layer printed too fast
  6. Worn or wrong build surface
Poor bed adhesion
Lines that drag around or ball up on the first layer, parts that pop loose mid-print, or a tangled mass of filament instead of a part.

What poor bed adhesion is and how to confirm it

A print is only as stable as its first layer. If the plastic does not bond to the build plate, the part can slide, curl or be knocked loose by the nozzle. Failures usually happen early: lines get dragged around, corners lift, or you come back to a pile of loose filament.

Watch the first layer go down. Good adhesion looks like flat lines that merge into a smooth sheet. Poor adhesion shows round lines sitting on top of the bed, gaps between lines, lines that peel up behind the nozzle, or plastic sticking to the nozzle instead of the plate. If the part comes off with almost no effort after printing, adhesion was marginal even if it survived.

Causes, most likely first

  1. Z-offset too high. The nozzle lays plastic on the bed instead of pressing it in.
  2. Contaminated surface. Fingerprints, dust and old glue residue reduce grip.
  3. Bed not level or not flat, so one area is too far from the nozzle.
  4. Wrong bed temperature for the material.
  5. First layer too fast or fan too high.
  6. Wrong or worn surface for the material.

Fixes, cheapest and fastest first

1. Clean the plate

Wipe with isopropyl alcohol. If grip has faded over weeks, wash smooth or textured PEI with warm water and dish soap, rinse and dry with a lint-free towel. Handle the plate by the edges.

2. Set the Z-offset

Print a single-layer test square and adjust live in steps of 0.02 to 0.05 mm. Too high: round, separated lines. Right: flat lines just touching with a smooth surface. Too low: thin, see-through layer, ridges, and the nozzle scraping.

3. Level the bed

Use the paper method at each corner and center with the bed and nozzle at printing temperature, or run auto bed leveling and make sure the mesh is actually loaded at print start. Recheck after moving the printer.

4. Use the right bed temperature

Starting points: PLA 55 to 65 °C, PETG 70 to 85 °C, ABS and ASA 95 to 110 °C, TPU 40 to 60 °C. Give the bed a few minutes to soak so the whole plate reaches temperature.

5. Slow the first layer and cut the fan

First layer speed of 15 to 25 mm/s and first-layer height of 0.2 to 0.3 mm give plastic time to bond. Keep the part cooling fan off for the first 1 to 3 layers.

6. Add a brim or adhesive

A 5 mm brim helps small or tall parts. Glue stick helps on glass and worn sheets. Replace PEI sheets that are scratched through or no longer hold anything after cleaning.

Material notes

  • PLA: sticks well to clean PEI and glass with glue. Most failures are Z-offset or oil.
  • PETG: can bond too strongly to smooth PEI and rip pieces out. Use textured PEI, or apply glue stick as a release layer, and do not over-squish.
  • ABS/ASA: needs a hot bed and no drafts; an enclosure helps adhesion as much as it helps warping.
  • TPU: usually sticks very well; use a slightly higher Z-offset and a release layer on smooth PEI to avoid damage.

Prevention checklist

  • Clean the build surface before every print with alcohol, and wash it periodically.
  • Do not touch the printing area.
  • Watch the first layer of every print for the first minute.
  • Recheck Z-offset after nozzle swaps or firmware updates.
  • Match bed temperature to the material.
  • Replace damaged build sheets.

Frequently asked questions

Why did my prints stick fine before and now they do not?

Gradual loss of adhesion is usually contamination. Oils from handling and residue from glue or cleaning products build up slowly, and alcohol alone does not remove all of them. Wash the plate with warm water and dish soap. Also check that the Z-offset has not changed, which can happen after a nozzle swap, a firmware update or a probe that has shifted slightly.

Is glue stick necessary on a PEI sheet?

Usually not for PLA. Clean PEI holds PLA well. Glue stick is useful in two cases: when a sheet has worn and grips poorly, and when printing PETG or TPU on smooth PEI, where the glue acts as a release layer so the part does not bond so strongly that it tears the surface when removed.

How do I remove a print that is stuck too well?

Let the bed cool fully; most plastics release as the plate contracts. With a flexible steel sheet, take it off and bend it gently. On glass, cooling or a short time in a freezer can help. Avoid prying with a sharp blade toward your hand. If parts are always very hard to remove, raise the Z-offset slightly.

Other print problems

Blobs and zitsClogged nozzleElephant footGhosting (ringing)