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Cost

Print cost calculator

Work out what a 3D print really costs: filament, electricity, printer wear and a failure allowance, then get a suggested selling price from a markup multiplier. Useful for quoting jobs, pricing products or just knowing your hobby budget.

Parameters
Material
g
$/kg
Print
h
min
%
Machine
W
$/kWh
$
h
Selling
×
Cost per print Live
$1.49
Filament
$0.96
Electricity
$0.06
Machine wear
$0.40
Failure allowance
$0.07
Sell price (3× markup)
$4.48

How the print cost calculation works

Most people price a print by the filament alone. That number is real, but it is only part of the bill. A printer running for eight hours draws power, wears out nozzles, belts, fans and build plates, and some prints fail and have to be run again. This calculator adds those parts together so the figure you quote covers what the print actually takes out of your pocket.

The total is built from four pieces:

  • Filament: grams / 1000 × spool price per kg
  • Electricity: watts / 1000 × print hours × price per kWh
  • Machine wear: printer price / expected life hours × print hours
  • Failure allowance: subtotal × failure %

The sum of those is your cost per print. The suggested sell price is cost × markup multiplier. The multiplier is where your time, design work, packaging, platform fees and profit live, because none of those are in the cost figure.

Measuring the inputs

Filament weight

Take the grams from your slicer after slicing, not from the model alone. The slicer figure includes supports, brim, purge and infill. On multi-color printers with a purge tower or filament flushing, the waste can be as large as the model, so make sure the slicer total includes it.

Spool price

Use what you paid per kilogram including shipping. A 1 kg spool at $20 plus $4 shipping is $24 per kg. Specialty materials such as carbon-fiber nylon can be three to five times the price of PLA.

Power draw

The power supply rating on the label is a maximum, not what the printer uses. A plug-in power meter is the honest way to measure it. Average draw for a typical bed-slinger printing PLA is about 100 to 150 W once the bed is up to temperature. ABS with a hot bed and an enclosure runs higher. Heat-up spikes are short and matter little over a long print.

Expected life hours

This spreads the printer's purchase price over the hours it will run before needing major replacement or retirement. 2000 to 5000 hours is a reasonable range for hobby machines. If you print commercially, add regular spare parts such as nozzles and PEI sheets into the printer price.

Worked example

A 120 g PLA part takes 6 hours. Filament costs $22 per kg, the printer averages 150 W, electricity is $0.15 per kWh, the printer cost $600 and you expect 3000 hours of life. You allow 10% for failures.

  1. Filament: 120 / 1000 × 22 = $2.64
  2. Electricity: 150 / 1000 × 6 × 0.15 = $0.14
  3. Wear: 600 / 3000 × 6 = $1.20
  4. Subtotal: $3.98, failure allowance 10% = $0.40
  5. Total cost: $4.37

With a 3× markup the suggested price is about $13.12. Note that machine wear cost almost half as much as the filament. On long, light prints it can cost more.

Typical values

InputTypical rangeNotes
PLA / PETG spool$15–30 per kgBulk buys at the low end
Engineering filaments$30–90 per kgNylon, PC, CF blends
Average power draw80–200 WEnclosed, hot-bed jobs higher
Electricity$0.10–0.40 per kWhCheck your utility bill
Expected life2000–5000 hHobby printers
Failure allowance5–15%Higher for tall or new designs
Markup2–5×Depends on design and labor

Common mistakes

  • Using the power supply rating. A 350 W supply does not mean 350 W draw. Using it can triple your electricity figure.
  • Leaving out purge waste. Multi-material prints can waste tens of grams per print.
  • Ignoring labor. Removing supports, sanding and packing take real time. Either charge for it in the markup or add an hourly rate on top.
  • Setting failure at zero. Even a well-tuned printer loses the odd print to a clogged nozzle or a bed adhesion problem.

Practical tips

  • Measure your printer's power once with a meter and save the number. It does not change much between jobs of the same material.
  • For batches, price the full plate and divide by the number of parts. The setup and cooldown time is shared.
  • Raise the failure allowance for first runs of a new design and lower it once the file is proven.
  • Keep platform fees and payment processing in mind. Marketplace fees of 10 to 15% can eat a thin markup.
  • Revisit your numbers when filament or power prices change. Small changes add up over hundreds of prints.

Frequently asked questions

Why include machine wear in the cost of a print?

Every hour of printing uses up part of the printer's life. Nozzles, belts, fans, hotends and build sheets wear and need replacing, and eventually the whole machine does. Spreading the purchase price over its expected running hours turns that into a cost per hour. Leaving it out makes long prints look much cheaper than they really are, especially light parts that use little filament.

How much electricity does a 3D printer actually use?

A typical open-frame FDM printer averages about 100 to 150 W while printing PLA once the bed is hot. Larger beds, enclosures and ABS or ASA push it higher, sometimes past 200 W. The power supply rating is a maximum and overstates real use. A plug-in power meter over a full print gives you the true average for your machine.

What failure percentage should I use?

For a tuned printer running proven files, 5% is reasonable. For new designs, tall thin parts, large flat parts prone to warping or tricky materials like nylon, 10 to 15% is safer. The allowance covers the occasional failed print and the filament and time it wasted. Track your own failures for a month and use your real rate.

What markup should I use when selling prints?

Many sellers use between 2 and 5 times the material and machine cost. The markup has to cover your design time, post-processing, packaging, marketplace fees and profit. Simple parts from free models in a crowded market sit at the low end. Original designs, custom work or parts that need a lot of finishing justify the higher end.

Should I use the filament weight from the slicer or weigh the part?

Use the slicer weight, because it includes supports, brim, skirt and purge material that end up in the bin rather than the finished part. Weighing only the finished part understates cost. If you want to check the slicer, weigh the spool before and after a print; the difference should be close to the slicer figure.

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